Types Of RV Air Conditioners
The right RV air conditioner depends on three things: your RV type, your available power and whether you need heating as well as cooling.
RV type & mounting
Most Class A, Class C and larger travel trailers use rooftop units - they mount over a standard 14” x 14” roof cutout and distribute air through the ceiling. Class B vans, camper vans and smaller trailers often use under-bench or under-counter units where roof access or clearance is limited. Check your existing cutout dimensions before buying a replacement to confirm compatibility.
BTU sizing
For RVs under 23 feet, a 13,500 BTU unit typically handles the load. Longer RVs (24 to32 feet) generally need 15,000 BTUs, especially in hot climates or with poor insulation. If you run the AC heavily in direct sun or high humidity, size up rather than down.
Expert Tip
“Oversized AC systems can actually worsen humidity problems because they cool the space too quickly and shut off before removing enough moisture. One thing many owners don't realize is that getting the sizing right matters as much for air quality as it does for comfort."
Emma Beguhn - Indoor Air Quality Expert
Heat pump or cooling only?
Heat pump models provide both heating and cooling from a single unit, which is useful for shoulder season travel when temperatures drop at night. They’re less effective below freezing, so if you’re traveling in genuinely cold conditions, a diesel heater or propane backup is still worth having alongside.
Power & solar
Most RV ACs require 30-amp shore power or a generator. If you’re planning off-grid or solar use, check the unit’s startup amperage. Soft-start technology significantly reduces the inverter size that you’ll need.
Need help matching a unit to your specific RV? Our team can walk you through compatibility before you buy.
Why Buy Your RV AC From Sylvane?
Sylvane doesn’t stock every RV air conditioner on the market - we stock the ones worth buying. Dometic has been the benchmark for RV climate control for decades. Pioneer brings inverter technology and heat pump capability at a price point that makes sense for full-time travelers and weekend warriors alike.
We evaluate every unit for build quality, parts availability and long-term reliability meaning you will only get a product that actually holds up.
Not sure which unit fits your RV? Talk to an RV AC product expert before you order, or browse the full range and filter by BTU and mounting style above.
FAQs
What size RV air conditioner do I need?
For RVs under 23 feet, 13,500 BTUs is typically sufficient. RVs between 24 and 32 feet generally need 15,000 BTUs, especially in hot or humid climates. If your RV has poor insulation, large windows, or you frequently camp in direct sun, err toward the higher BTU rating. Oversizing isn't as problematic in RV units as in residential AC, but an undersized unit will run constantly and struggle in extreme heat. When in doubt, match the BTU rating of your existing unit - it was likely sized for your RV when it was installed.
Can I install an RV air conditioner myself?
Replacing a rooftop unit with the same BTU rating and footprint is a manageable DIY job for most RV owners. The process involves removing the old shroud, disconnecting the electrical and bolting down the new unit with a new gasket. Budget 2-4 hours of time. A new installation or a unit that requires electrical upgrades is more involved and may need a certified RV technician.
What’s the difference between ducted & non-ducted RV air conditioners?
Ducted RV AC systems connect to ceiling vents throughout the RV, distributing cooled air evenly across multiple rooms or zones. They’re common in larger Class A motorhomes. Non-ducted units blow air directly from the rooftop unit into the space below. This is most effective in open-plan RVs where there’s a clear line of airflow. If your RV has existing ductwork, replace with a ducted-compatible unit to maintain even distribution. If there’s no duct system, a non-ducted unit is simpler and usually more than adequate.
Do RV air conditioners work with solar power?
Yes, but with important caveats. Most RV ACs draw 12-15 amps at 120V during normal operation, but startup (compressor kick-on) can spike to 50-80 amps momentarily. This is enough to trip a standard inverter or drain a battery bank quickly. To run an RV AC on solar, you need a soft-start device (many newer units include one) and a properly sized inverter-charger system. A battery bank of 200-400Ah is typically the minimum for sustained off-grid AC use.
Do RV air conditioners also provide heat?
Heat pump models provide both heating and cooling from a single unit. They’re efficient and effective for shoulder-season use when temperatures drop overnight but don’t fall below freezing. Below about 40°F, heat pump efficiency drops significantly and below freezing, most units won’t operate in heat mode. For winter travel or cold-climate camping, a heat pump can handle mild nights but should be paired with a propane furnace or diesel heater for sustained cold-weather use.
How loud are RV air conditioners?
Noise levels vary by model and operating mode. Older rooftop units typically run at 60-65 dB - audible but manageable, similar to a conversation in volume. Newer models with variable-speed inverter technology run quieter, often 52-58 dB at low speed. For sleeping comfort, check the listing dB rating in the product specs - anything under 55 dB at low speed is considered quiet for an RV environment.
